Molokai History 101

Early History
 

It is not clear when the Hawaiian islands were first inhabited. It is believed that early Polynesian voyagers came from the Marquesas Islands around 450 A.D. However, recent archaeological evidence suggests the first settlers may have arrived earlier. Around 700 A.D., new waves of colonists arrived from Tahiti.

Historically, Molokai was not politically significant except through the marriages of its ali`i (royalty, pronounced ah-LEE-ee), and later, through the reputation of its kahuna (priests, pronounced kah-HOO-nah). For the most part, the neighboring islands of Maui and O`ahu ignored Molokai.

One of Molokai's earliest local legends tells of Kupu, who came from Tahiti and became the principal chief of East Molokai. It is said that an extraordinary waterspout gushed down the mountain and flooded the valley, destroying his home and drowning family members.
In the 16th century, Molokai came under the rule of its first non Molokai leader, Kiha-a-pi-ilani, son of the Maui king. Kiha’s reign was marked by great peace, prosperity, and the construction of fishponds and roads. 

In the late 16th century, trees appeared on the ridge of Maunaloa. Hawaiians believed they were planted by the gods and that its wood was poisonous and capable of invoking fatal illnesses. Legends claim that one of the gods instructed a man named Kaneiakama on how these trees were to be cut and how offerings to the trees were to be made. These stories may have later contributed to Molokai's fearsome reputation for having some of Hawai`i’s most powerful priests.
In the 18th century, sovereignty of Molokai changed hands several times. The island had fallen into dissent and warfare as Molokai's chiefs fought for control over valuable fishing grounds. In order to settle the conflict, Molokai's northern rulers brought in chiefs from other islands, and as a result, the island of O`ahu gained control of Molokai. Later in the century, the King of Maui launched an invasion of O`ahu. On his way, his stopped at Molokai to secure fish, and it is said his armada of war canoes could be seen from one third of the island. Maui’s attack on O`ahu was successful, and the islands of Molokai and O`ahu fell under Maui’s control. But by the end of the century, Molokai was conquered once again, this time by King Kamehameha (kah-MEH-hah-MEH-hah) the Great, who would eventually go on to conquer and unify all of the main islands into one Kingdom of Hawai`i.

It is said that the birthplace of hula is at Ka'ana, near the present-day town of Maunaloa (MOW-nah-LOW-ah) on Moloak'i.
Kamehameha the Great stayed on Molokai for a while to secure the allegiance of the island’s chiefs before moving on to attack O`ahu. His conquest of Molokai (and neighboring islands Lana'i and Maui) was marked by tremendous destruction of fields, plantations and human lives.

Legend has it that Kamehameha the Great camped on the mountain slopes of Molokai for a year as he planned to invade O`ahu. He prepared all of this war canoes on Molokai, and trained his warriors on the Ho’olehua (HOH-oh-leh-HOO-ah) plain (near where Ho’olehua Airport stands today.  It is said that the birthplace of hula is at Ka`ana near the present day town of Maunaloa (MOW-nah-LOH-ah) on Molokai.
Modern History
 

In 1778, as American colonials battled British soldiers on the East Coast, Captain James Cook of England, on his third major voyage, sailed into Hawaiian waters and “discovered” the islands for the Western world. He saw Molokai from a distance, and logged the first written description of the island, but never set foot on it.

You may hear some people pronounce “Molokai” as MOH-loh-kai (three syllables) and others as MOH-loh-kah-ee (four syllables). While there is some scholarly debate, Captain Cook recorded the island’s name with three syllables, “Morotoi,” and thus, many believe the authentic pronunciation of Molokai is just that, with no break between the ka and i. 
Historical records show that Christian missionaries were among the first foreigners to visit Molokai in the early 1800s. Molokai's first permanent missionary was established in 1832, at Kalua’aha on the island’s east end. Today, only the church's outer walls remain, and the structure is being restored by the Hawaiian community.

Molokai's modern history was significantly influenced by Rudolph Meyer, a well educated gentleman who arrived in the 1840s. R.W. Meyer, as he is commonly known, married a chiefess of Hawaiian and Samoan descent, and settled in Kala`e (kah-LAH-eh). His spread soon became the wonder spot of the island. Kala`e was independent of the outside world. It produced coffee, corn, wheat and potatoes, much of which was exported to California during the early days of the Gold Rush. Meyer built his own horsepower sugar mill and manufactured a ton of sugar a week for nearly 30 years. (Meyer’s Sugar Mill has been fully restored and is today a popular visitor attraction on Molokai.) Meyer also oversaw the Leper Settlement on Kalaupapa during the 1860s, and he co-managed ranch lands with King Kamehameha V.

Molokai was a vacation destination long before there was ever a modern tourism industry in Hawai`i. King Kamehameha V, who ruled Hawai`i in the later part of the 1800s, built a vacation home on the beach at Kaunakakai, to where he would escape the toils of his job. His home consisted of a spacious thatched grass hut circled by a lanai (patio, pronounced lah-nigh), with floors covered with Hawaiian mats. One of its two rooms contained English language books.

King Kamehameha V purchased land and cattle from Molokai residents and established a country estate. Because his cattle were kapu (off limits, pronounced KAH-poo), they were allowed to roam the island undisturbed. Today, traces of stone walls built to prevent the wandering animals from destroying agricultural crops can be seen on the island.
King Kamehameha V is also credited for planning coconut groves, releasing deer on the island, and establishing the Leper Settlement at Kalaupapa.

Molokai's Economy

Molokai experienced bouts of economic stagnation during the 1900s. When sugar production failed, companies turned to cattle and sheep ranching, as well as honey production. Raising cattle became the island’s main industry until the 1920s, when the pineapple industry came to Molokai. Unfortunately, many independent pineapple growers eventually went bankrupt, and Molokai's pineapple industry ended in the 1970s.

In 1836, Molokai had a resident population of 8,700. By 1920, it had fallen to 1,117 as residents left to seek a better life on neighboring islands. Today, Molokai's population has grown to approximately 7,000.
Today, Molokai's number one industry is tourism as growing numbers of travelers are discovering the natural beauty and attractions of this rural Hawaiian island. Following several changes in ownership, the former plantation town of Maunaloa is being re-developed, and Hawai`i’s only eco-resort has been established. The Lodge at Molokai Ranch was completed in 1999, and is being managed by Sheraton Hotels & Resorts. 

Hawai`i’s cultural values
Some of Maui County’s foremost cultural experts identified eight Hawaiian values with particular relevance for visitors to the islands. An understanding of these values may help travelers achieve a deeper appreciation for their Maui experience.

Aloha (ah-LOH-hah): Aloha means hello, love, mercy, compassion, pity, or goodbye. More importantly, it is an expression of the heart. Aloha is shown in numerous ways. A person who gives a lei to a visitor is sharing aloha. Aloha is also a spiritual recognition of the physical person, and thus, is sometimes expressed through an embrace or handshake or other form of physical contact because for many, it is important to feel the other person.

Ho`okipa (hoh-oh-KEE-pah): The concept of hospitality is common to many cultures, but many people feel that Hawai`i’s ho`okipa is different because of its broadness. Ho`okipa is meant to be given freely to all, and is not reserved for friends, neighbors or family. When a person is on the receiving end of ho`okipa, it is like receiving a tremendous gift.

Mahalo (mah-HAH-loh): Mahalo means being thankful. In Hawai`i, mahalo is more than a polite expression of appreciation. Mahalo is often expressed in action rather than words, by making a contribution, being courteous to others and respectful of the host culture. For some of Hawai`i’s cultural experts, visitors who take the time to understand and be aware of who Hawai`i’s people are, and who share that knowledge with others – that is a tremendous way of expressing mahalo.

Laulima (low-LEE-mah):  This word means cooperation, to work together. Laulima is to come together and make each other feel welcome. As a general rule, visitors who learn of a local community project and wish to participate will always be welcomed. Cooperation also means to cooperate with the “rules”: keep things clean, leave places better than when you arrived, and follow the protocol of the host location.

Kokua (koh-KOO-ah):  Kokua means to help, cooperate, assist or support. It means to care and share with each other. Visitors may see signs on Maui that say: “Please Kokua.” That means to please understand and please cooperate.

Malama (MAH-lah-mah):  Malama means to take care of, preserve, honor, fidelity, or loyalty. It applies to caring for people, such as children and elders, as well as things. Malama `aina (caring for the land) is an important Hawaiian concept. Littering or extinguishing cigarettes in the sand violate of the spirit of malama.

Lokahi (lo-KAH-hee): Lokahi means unity, agreement or accord. It emphasizes the importance of community and our inter-dependence upon each other.

`Ike (EE-kay):  `Ike is defined as to see, know, feel, recognize, understand, knowledge or sense. If you smell a blossom, its scent is the `ike. If you listen to a Hawaiian chant, and you feel a sense of wonder or awe even though you don’t understand the words, you are experiencing `ike. `Ike can be gained by using all of the senses to gain a connection.