Hiking the Halawa Valley
It’s not often you have the feeling that a Tyrannosaurus Rex may be stalking you. Yet here, in the vast and primordial Halawa Valley of East Molokai, it seems absolutely possible. Maybe it’s the lack of any noise other than the distant roll of surf, a few birds, and the swirl of the trade winds. Maybe it’s the ancient mountains, with waterfalls plunging hundreds of feet into deserted pools. Whatever it is, you get the sense that nothing much has changed here since at the least the Jurassic period.
Tip:
When visiting the pools beneath the falls, be sure to test the temperament of the gods. An ancient custom deems that you should drop a ti leaf into the water. If it floats, it is safe to swim. If it sinks, you may wish to come again another day!
Clearly there are no dinosaurs to worry about, but if you want to get of sense of Hawaii as it was long ago, the Halawa Valley is a fascinatingly beautiful place to explore. Located at the very end of the island, approximately 30 miles and a one hour drive from Kaunakakai, the valley is home to an abundance of native plants and animals, and is perhaps best known for its waterfalls.
Two large and beautiful waterfalls can be seen flowing down the surrounding mountains. The 250-foot Mooula Falls is approximately 2 miles up the valley. Legend states that a giant lizard (mo'o) lives in the deep pool fed by this fall. Hipuapua Falls, with its spectacular 500-foot cascade fall, is another dramatic site just north of Moaula.
The area also has a rich human history, from its early days as a settlement of people from the Marquesas Islands. In those times the valley was a sacred place, and the remains of several heiau (temples) can still be found.
The only way to safely and legally (much of the land is privately held) visit the valley is with a native Hawaiian guide. The guides are well-versed in the history of the valley and its people, and will point out restored taro ponds, stacked-rock house sites, and temple remains.
